I have to say though, the train ride was totally worth it: Jaisalmer is probably one of the coolest places I've been to. The city centres around an old fort, which unlike the rest of the forts in India, hasn't been turned into a museum. This so called "living fort" is a hustling, bustling cacaphony of colours, smells, cows, narrow mazelike streets and doorways looking like they will take you to Shangri-La.
And so far I've been pleasantly surprised how friendly and helpful the Indians are. Even when you're not considering buying their hand-carwed camels.
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