Today is the festival of Dee-Deepawali in Varanasi. It is supposed to be a celebration of the river, but what it really means is that 2 million people or so decided to go down to the Ganges all at the same time to play with fireworks and watch the spectacle by boats. Coincidentally I was trying to get to my hotel simultaniously, which was easier said than done.
Varanasi is by far the filthiest and most disgusting place I've been to in a long, long time. I've already managed to get lost ambling down the dark alleyways, which twist and turn more than the tail of an angry cat. And I NEVER get lost; the other day I even guided two native Indians through Udaipur by car. The only other place that has managed to defeat my internal map was Istanbul, I'm blaming it on the lack of street signs. :)
I joined the crowd for a stroll along the Ganges, trying not to look too closely at the suspisciously looking objects bobbing in the river. Next to my hotel is the main burning ghat, it's identity given away by the large fires + piles of firewood lying around. I had expected the air to be full with the smell of burning flesh, but there was surprisingly little barbeque-feeling going on, it might be different in the day. Report coming later.
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